My bike bumped over the cobbled streets as our tour group rode through a military checkpoint into a gravel courtyard. Stoic stone buildings sat nearby, and over a small bridge was the historic Akershus Fortress. “You’re standing outside Norway’s equivalent of the Pentagon,” our guide told us. And we’d cycled right through the checkpoint without being stopped.
So goes life in Norway, where the “right to roam” (allemannsretten) is such a part of the culture that citizens can hike through and even camp for up to two nights on private property (so long as they stay far enough away from inhabited buildings).
And roaming is something anyone travelling to this part of the world should do. With abundant national parks, mountains, glaciers and fjords, Norway is a country with natural wonders made to be explored. In fact, getting out into nature is valued so highly that there’s a specific word for it – friluftsliv, which translates to “open air life”. And as part of my 7-night cruise to Norway with Holland America Line, I certainly fell in love with the concept as I explored Oslo, Kristiansand, Sandnes and Skjolden in autumn.
Oslo
Oslo’s Opera House. Christine Baglo – Visitnorway.com
The first stop on this Norway cruise was the country’s capital and its largest city. Oslo is surrounded by sea and mountains, though the city itself is largely flat and ideal for exploring on foot or by bike. By the water you’ll see the phenomenal Opera House, inspired by glaciers and with a roof that you can easily walk up onto. For art lovers, nearby is the museum Munch, which has the largest collection of works by Norwegian artist Edvard Munch, famous for painting The Scream.
Take a stroll up Karl Johans Gate, Oslo’s main street, and you’ll pass plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants on your way to the grand neoclassical building that sits atop the hill at the end of the street – the Royal Palace. Other buildings of note nearby are the imposing red-brick, two towered City Hall, where outdoor wooden friezes depict stories from Norse mythology, and the Nobel Peace Center, which is housed in a converted train station.
Vigeland Park. Visit Norway – Field Productions
One of my favourite spots in Oslo was Vigeland Park. This spectacular green space is home to over 200 sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland, including a 14m-tall monolith that took masons 14 years to carve to his specifications. Spend time walking the gardens and marvelling at the depictions of life carved in bronze, granite and wrought iron. You’ll see joyous, contemplative, poignant and whimsical figures on display across a long bridge and up a tiered garden to the towering monolith.
Kristiansand
Biking outside Christiansholm Fortress. Frida Neverdal – Visit Sørlandet
Named after King Christian IV, Kristiansand is a popular holiday destination for Norwegians, and part of the coastal area of southern Norway lovingly referred to as the “Norwegian Riviera”. Walking along the waterfront from port will bring you past green parks to the circular Christiansholm Fortress, and the city beach Bystranda, both offering uninterrupted views out across the water to the islands dotted in the archipelago.
Further into town the Kristiansand Cathedral welcomed me in, and I was lucky enough to catch a free organ concert. Market stalls in the square outside displayed colourful clothes and accessories perfect for taking home as souvenirs. The streets that branched off (in roads laid out in grids, unusual for Norway but requested by King Christian IV) also provided plenty of opportunity for shopping, including cafes where I indulged in my first sampling of the delectable cinnamon buns that are sold all around Norway, this particular one also flavoured with cardamom. Add them to your must-try list – you’ll not be disappointed!
Fiskebrygga, the fish market. Patricia Thiede/Foap – VisitNorway.com
A stroll through the old town, Posebyen, gave plenty of opportunities for photos with some of Norway’s historic white wooden buildings. For lunch it was a visit to Fiskebrygga, the fish market. It’s the perfect place to soak up some sun while enjoying the catch of the day (most likely a variety of cod) and watch the boats and people passing by before heading back to the ship to continue your Norway cruise.
For those fascinated by modern architecture, two buildings on Odderøya island are worth a look. Kilden, a performing arts centre, with its undulating local oak façade floating above walls of glass, sits side-by-side with the recently opened Kunstsilo, an arts and culture centre housed in 38-metre-tall silos.
Sandnes
Traditional white wooden houses in Posebyen. Frida Neverdal – Visit Sørlandet
Off the ship at the next stop of our Norway cruise, it was a half-hour stroll past more picturesque wooden houses, with sparkling water visible beyond buildings, into the town centre of Sandnes. Featuring one of Norway’s longest pedestrian streets, Sandnes is a haven for shoppers. Along Langgata you’ll find boutiques nestled beside cafes and restaurants, selling everything from gourmet foods and homewares to books and second-hand clothes. Large colourful wooden chairs are dotted along the street, providing perfect opportunities for rest or to snap a holiday photo.
If shopping isn’t your thing, nearby is Ruten, a city park where locals congregate throughout the year. The multi-purpose space boasts a skate park, greenery, and enough room to hold outdoor performances. It’s presided over by a striking floating ring roof.
There is also an interactive science museum to explore, Vitenfabrikken, or you can hire bikes from the tourist information centre. Keep an eye out for murals on buildings around town, which are part of the Nuart Sandnes Art Trail.
Skjolden
Along the Sognefjord. M. Dickson/Foap – Visitnorway.com
The journey to our final Norway cruise destination was as pretty as the town itself. As we cruised down Norway’s longest fjord, the 204km-long Sognefjord, “king of the fjords”, white houses stood in contrast to the green-covered hills, and numerous waterfalls tripped down the cliffs.
Skjolden (pronounced shol-den), was a town hidden by mist on the morning of our stop, but when the sun started to chase away the clouds, what was revealed was breathtaking. My camera got a workout, especially after a walk up to the Sengjaberget viewpoint, which was well worth the effort. Tall mountains, verdant greenery and waters made aqua from glacier run-off all spread out below me like a postcard. Views are equally spectacular from near the information centre and cafe. For something different, a visit to the llama farm will put a smile on your face.
On my way back to the ship there was time for one last cinnamon bun, still warm from the oven, enjoyed at a cafe by the water. Surrounded by nature and my fingers sticky with cinnamon, it was the perfect way to farewell Norway, awed by the scenery and making a promise to myself: To take a little of the Norwegian friluftsliv mentality home with me.
Visit all these locations as part of the 7-night Viking Sagas cruise with Holland America Line.
The writer travelled as a guest of Holland America Line.