Every two years, thousands of chefs, farmers, artisan food producers, fishermen, ranchers and food activists representing more than 120 countries converge in Turin, Italy, for Slow Food’s international festival, Terra Madre Salone del Gusto. They talk about sustainable agriculture and the environment, about politics and how to advocate for better food policies and practices. Think of it as the “United Nations of Food,” where the future of how humanity eats takes center stage.
This year, restaurateur and chef Samantha Ramey of Americana and Estero Café restaurants was chosen to represent the Sonoma County Slow Food North chapter at the festival, which took place Sept. 26-30. Tiffany Holbrook of Wise Acre Farm in Windsor and Donna del Rey of Relish Culinary Adventures in Healdsburg also attended the event.
Ramey, who owns the Sonoma County restaurants with her husband, Ryan, likened her adventure to participating in the food Olympics.
“And y’all know I’ve been training for this my whole life,” she said on social media.
In Italy, Ramey was able to explore expansive farmers markets, meet (or at least sit near) Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, tour Parmesan factories, meet delegates and small restaurant owners from around the world and eat some great gelato along the way.
Here are some of her takeaways from this year’s event, which focused on the connection between humans and nature.
Terra Madre is coming to the Bay Area in 2025: Speaking to American Slow Food delegates, founder Carlo Petrini announced that Terra Madre would expand to the U. S., specifically the Bay Area. In 2025, Sacramento will host Terra Madre Americas. Similar regional Terra Madre events will be held in the Philippines and Norway, with plans to expand to Africa and launching a program inclusive of Indigenous peoples.
Regional foods matter: In Italy, the government protects certain foods produced in certain regions, like Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, balsamic vinegar from Reggio Emilia or San Marzano tomatoes through its Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) certification, which directly translates as “Protected Designation of Origin“ and requires that the food comes from a specific place and meets high quality standards.
“DOPs save a lot of the great foods. There’s an inherited integrity. You’re not going to feel pressure to cheapen your product; you want to have pride because your name is on it,” said Ramey after visiting several Parmesan cheese factories in Parma.
Sonoma’s Snails of Approval are picky: After meeting with other American Slow Food delegates, Ramey was taken with how selective the Slow Food Sonoma County North chapter is when handing out awards to local restaurants, farms, ranches and artisan producers who “are making a significant contribution to improving the local food system.” The rigorous process includes a national eligibility application and an on-site review by the Slow Food team. Local winners include Ramey’s restaurants, Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm, Black Pig Meat Co. and Tilted Shed Ciderworks.
“We have one of the strictest (chapters),” said Ramey, who recommends that people search out Slow Food-approved restaurants when they travel.
Seasonality is everything: Eating seasonally is a Sonoma County tradition, but Ramey said a tour of a farmers market in Turin was nevertheless eye-opening. “The quality was so high. It was so seasonal. They just don’t sell anything out of season.”
“There were these huge buildings with charcuterie, seafood, bread, bakeries and cheesemakers, and the prices were really reasonable for gourmet foods,” she said. She noticed little fresh produce on visits to Italian supermarkets because people go to the farmers markets daily.
It’s amazing what kids eat: Images of children from around the world, surrounded with a week’s worth of meals, is the premise for photographer Gregg Segal’s “Daily Bread” series. Several images were on display at Terra Madre, and Ramey was struck by how healthy — and unhealthy — diets can be, especially in Western countries.
Ramey’s favorite meal: Salmon linguine during a visit to Cinque Terre on the northwest coast of Italy. “Just the pasta, it was everything,” she said. As a restaurateur with multiple businesses, Ramey said she spoke to more than 25 restaurant owners in Italy, discovering that, like her, they embrace the traditional, family-run aspects of the company while expanding to different locations to make the numbers work. “There’s an economy of scale,” she said.
Bonus: there’s a gelato rating system. In Italy, eating gelato is a religion. Ramey said a gelato rating system helped her to find the best scoops. A three cones (Tre Coni) rating from Gambero Rosso magazine is the pinnacle for gelato makers (and eaters).
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.