Neuschwanstein Castle inspired Walt Disney to build Cinderella Castle and offers spectacular views both in winter and summer.
The brilliant green meadow, accentuated by the deep blue of the sky above and the melodious sound of the cow bells is further enhanced by the mountain stream snaking downwards from a roaring waterfall nearby. The entire scene framed by the soaring rugged mountain peaks is so spectacular that one wouldn’t be surprised if Julie Andrews appeared in the scene bursting into song from the “Sound of Music.”
We had flown into Munich, Germany as one of the main gateways to Austria, and drove to the town of Oberammergau of Passion Play fame. We stayed in one of the many traditional hotels festooned with flower-filled wooden boxes hanging from balcony railings and went for a hike in the Bavarian Alps bordering on the Austrian alpine country. Before crossing into Austria the next day, we visited the spectacular Neuschwanstein Castle that inspired Walt Disney to build Cinderella’s Castle at Disney World. It is most certainly a magical sight and well worth a visit.
Driving across the border into Austria, one is immediately taken by the rugged landscape. The mountains are higher and steeper, with a vast expanse of massive peaks and valleys that create a challenging landscape. In my earlier years, I was fortunate enough to climb many of these mountains and spend time hiking between rustic alpine mountain huts offering overnight accommodations to avoid having to turn back down on long hikes to a valley below. The camaraderie enjoyed here between people from different nationalities and different walks of life provided many great memories. Everyone was focused on the difficulties of hikes ascents and discussing their goals for the next day while eating and drinking at rough-hewn massive wooden tables.
At one time Austria, ruled by Charles I, was an enormous empire that was the second-largest country in Europe after Russia. It suffered from countless wars and was reduced to its present small size after defeat during the First World War. Parts of Italy, Poland, Romania, the Czech Republic, Hungary, and former Yugoslavia were all within the Empire. Additionally, Yugoslavia is no longer a country and has become a group of countries, including Kosovo, Serbia, Bosnia, North Macedonia, Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro. Austria has been a member of the European Union since 1995, but for many years after the wars, and until recently, Austria has leaned towards the East Block for support that at present has almost evaporated because of the Ukrainian war. This has created worries about oil supplies in the country however, the economy remains one of the stronger ones in the European market.
Oberammergau, home to the famous Passion Play and charming Bavarian hotels.
Our hikes included numerous impressive waterfalls.
Visiting Austria, one can drive breathtaking mountain roads, including the well-groomed Gross Glockner Alpine Road, up to 8,215 ft. Just to see this in context, one can drive the Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway near Denver, Colorado, to 14,271 ft. or the Karakoram Highway for over 800 miles from Pakistan to China. At the highest border crossing in the world at 15,466 ft, drivers change from driving on the left in Pakistan to the right in China.
But Austria will probably remain my favorite Alpine country to visit not only for its breathtaking scenery, hearty food, and great beer but also for its “gemütlichkeit,” an especially warm and friendly atmosphere unique to the Austrians. Its people have endured many challenges throughout the historic years of strife.
The capital, Vienna, is situated in the only flat lands, almost like a separate country. It is so close to the Hungarian border that one can drive from here to the Hungarian capital, Budapest, in just over two hours. Vienna offers intricate Gothic churches, baroque Winter Palaces, a full spectrum of classical music, and for dessert aficionados like me, the “Kuche” delectables in the Konditorei (coffee shops) will always be a delicious treat. Most everyone has heard of the world-famous Vienna “Sacher Torte.”
The Royals, the Habsburg family dating back to Charles I, are still around, albeit without any political power. Karl von Habsburg is the oldest grandson of the former Emperor, who was born in southern Germany but took the Austrian nationality and is a politician. Son Ferdinand is making his fame as a racecar driver like another well-known Austrian from Vienna, Niki Lauda, the former three-time Formula 1 World Champion. Aside from his racing fame, he owned Lauda Air, a commercial airline. He also had a pilot’s license, and we once had the experience of flying with him as captain on one of their scheduled transatlantic flights to Miami. Sadly, he died at a young age in 2019, mainly because of injuries sustained from a race car accident many years earlier. Niki was also probably the only airline executive to personally challenge Boeing long before the present woes of the company. A Lauda Air accident killed over 200 people in Thailand at the first such fatal accident involving a Boeing 767-300 aircraft in 2004. Boeing had blamed the pilots for the mishap, but after endless flights in simulators, Mr. Lauda eventually proved that Boeing was at fault and the company was forced to make alterations to the 767-engine system.
The cities of Salzburg and Innsbruck are in the middle of the Alps. The 900-year-old Hohensalzburg Fortress is one of the largest and best-preserved castles in Europe, perched over the center of the historic Baroque city of Salzburg, the birthplace of music composer Amadeus Mozart. Today, his influence is still felt throughout this remarkable city. Innsbruck is the capital of probably the best-known part of the Austrian Alps: Tirol. Host to the Winter Olympics in 1964 and again in 1976, as well as the Winter Para-Olympics in 1984 and 1988.
Gästehaus Alpenblick, our lovely family-run hotel in Rinnen, Tirol, in an idyllic alpine setting.
View from our hotel.
All year long, a cable car operates right from the center of town near the famous “Golden Roof,” up to 7,400 feet, and from there numerous lifts operate during the ski season, and a free Ski Bus runs from Innsbruck to seven of the thirteen ski resorts around Innsbruck. As I am a “tour skier” and not a racer, I love the long and gentle slopes in Austria, most with an opportunity to stop along the way in a cozy small café called “stube” for a short rest and refreshment. During the summer months, many of these cafes on the ski slopes all over the Alps are open to hikers, climbers, and mountain bikers. Some even have rustic-looking ATMs to guarantee guests can stay for an extra meal and drink if they run out of cash.
Restaurants in Austria often resemble one’s living room more than a real restaurant, and aside from the famous “Wiener Schnitzel,’” breaded thin veal or pork, and “Apfel Strudel,” apple cake with ice cream, vanilla sauce or homemade whipped cream, the owner will offer something different from the kitchen most days depending on his mood and what he can get from his local suppliers. After a long day of hiking, climbing, or skiing in Austria’s spectacular mountains, there is no better relaxation than such a casual evening. I already look forward with great anticipation to returning tothis breathtaking landlocked alpine country.
Ewout Rijk de Vries and his wife, Jill, brought America Travel Arrangements to Marco Island 40 years ago. They specialize in high-end small adventure tours and small safari groups for clientele all over the world but also are experts on high-end cruises with the help of longtime assistant and friend, Michelle Wegman. In combination with his writing and photography, Ewout has visited over 100 countries. Please direct your comments or questions to ewout@coastalbreezenews.com, as he likes to hear from readers.